The main purpose of any cream is to keep the skin moist. Many conventional creams form a suffocating film on the skin to prevent moisture loss.

Even a natural humectant, glycerin, actually attracts water from the air and surrounding tissue. It keeps the skin moist as long as there is sufficient moisture in the air. In a dry climate it actually draws moisture from the skin.

Collagen, elastin and keratin enjoy some popularity as humectants. Whilst they are compatible with the skin and deposit a protective film, they are usually sourced from animals and therefore cannot be termed “cruelty free”. Some skin care companies would like you to believe that your skin can use special animal proteins to rejuvenate and replace aging cells. This is nonsense! The size of the molecules, even when broken down (hydrolysed), are far too large to penetrate the skin. Even if they could get in, they would be immediately rejected as foreign matter and attacked by the immune system.

Natural phospholipids, from lecithin, are fantastic humectants. An important benefit of phospholipids is that they are hygroscopic (attract water from the surrounding air) and hold water where an increased level of hydration is needed.

Therefore, phospholipids increase the hydration levels of the skin without being occlusive (forming a film to prevent water loss, and preventing normal cellular function).

A recent study proved the value of topically applied phospholipids in skin care. It found that environmental factors (sun, wind, pollution) and the detergents and solvents, found in most skin cleansers, actually stripped the natural phospholipid content from the top layer of skin.

This loss resulted in a rough feel and a pitted appearance under a microscope. Importantly, the phospholipids in the uppermost skin layers cannot be replaced by natural cell function, as the top layer of cells no longer metabolise; they serve only as a protective barrier.

Remarkably, the study showed that topically applied plant phospholipids restore the barrier function of the skin, protecting it from substances such as bacteria and harmful chemicals.

Some Synthetic Humectants Propylene Glycol – causes irritation and contact dermatitis Ethylene/Diethylene Glycol – causes irritation and contact dermatitis PEG compounds (eg Polyethylene Glycol) – may contain the toxic by-product dioxane Ethoxylated surfactants (eg “- laureth-”) – may contain the toxic by-product – dioxane Synthetic alcohols (eg Glyceryl Coconate, Hydroxystearate, Myristate, Oleate) have been shown to cause allergies and dermatitis. Some Natural Humectants Lecithin Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) Glycerin

Previous: NATURAL ALTERNATIVES TO CHEMICALS? EMOLLIENTS Part 4

Next: NATURAL ALTERNATIVES TO CHEMICALS? Emulsifiers Part 6

Note: All material published in Organic and Natural Living is copyright © June 2003 of Organic & Natural Enterprise Group and or the individual authors,and is strictly forbidden to reproduce in any form or in any other publication without the prior written approval from ONE Group

All skin care products, both synthetic and natural, contain items from the following categories in some combination or other:

EMOLLIENTS

Emollients serve two functions; they prevent dryness and protect the skin, acting as a barrier and healing agent. Water is the best emollient, but because it evaporates quickly it is ineffective. It needs to be held on the skin by emollient oils in what is called an emulsion.

Synthetic emollients are occlusive i.e. they coat the skin and do not allow it to respire (much like plastic wrap), which can cause skin irritation. Some synthetic emollients can accumulate in the liver and lymph nodes. They are also nonbiodegradable, causing a negative environmental impact.

Natural emollients actually nourish the skin. They are metabolised by the skin’s own enzymes and absorbed into it. They are readily biodegradable and are of edible quality.

Some Synthetic Emollients PEG compounds (eg PEG- 45 Almond Glyceride) may contain the toxic by-product Dioxane Synthetic alcohols (anything that contains the phrase benzyl –, butyl-, cetearyl-, cetyl -, glyceryl-, isopropyl-, myristyl propyl-, propylene-, or stearyl-) eg Isopropyl Palmitate, Diglyceryl Caprylate) have been shown to cause allergies and dermatitis. Hydrocarbons (eg mineral oil, petrolatum, paraffin) contain carcinogenic and mutagenic Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons (PAHs) and can cause chemically induced acne. Silicone Oils (eg dimethicone, cyclomethicone, copolyol) can clog the skin like plastic wrap and cause tumours when painted on lab animals (according to the Material Safety Data Sheet supplied by the manufacturer). Some Natural Emollients Plant Oils (eg. Jojoba, Avocado, Rosehip) Shea, Cocoa and Jojoba Butters

Previous: How do we know what we are buying is really “NATURAL” and “ORGANIC”? Part 3

Next:Natural Alternatives to Chemicals: Humectants Part 5

Note: All material published in Organic and Natural Living is copyright © June 2003 of Organic & Natural Enterprise Group and or the individual authors,and is strictly forbidden to reproduce in any form or in any other publication without the prior written approval from ONE Group.

Buying organic is the ‘in thing’ nowadays, however there are loads of products out there that are jumping on the organic bandwagon. How can you distinguish between the buzz words?

Here are a few terms and meanings to help you.

100 per cent organic: contains 100 per cent organically produced ingredients (excluding water and salt).

Eco-cert: contains at least 95 per cent organic ingredients (excluding water and salt).

Made with organic ingredients: contains at least 70 per cent organic ingredients.

Hypoallergenic: products are less likely to cause allergic reactions.

Alcohol-free: contains no ethyl alcohol (or grain alcohol).

Fragrance-free: product has no perceptible odour.

Noncomedogenic: products do not contain common pore-clogging ingredients that could lead to acne.

Cruelty-free or no new animal testing: implies that products have not been tested on animals.

Fortunately, there is a very simple way to differentiate between hype and truth in cosmetics - and that is to read the ingredient list on the label. It is a legal requirement that all skin care products must be labelled with the ingredients in descending order of their quantity in the product. A good rule of thumb is to divide the ingredients list into thirds: the top third usually contains 90-95% of the product, the middle third usually contains 5-8% and the bottom third, 1-3%.

Here is the ingredient list of a “natural” and “organic” body moisturiser from a well known “natural” skin care company.

Take note of the last point that says “Content: Apricot Oil (2.5%)”. Notice that Apricot Oil is number 3 on the list. Because skin care manufacturers are required to list the ingredients in descending order this means everything AFTER Apricot oil makes up LESS than 2.5% by volume.

This means that about 90% of that product is water and Isopropyl Palmitate. Isopropyl Palmitate, is derived from Isopropyl Alcohol, synthetic alcohol, and Palmitic Acid, a fatty acid from palm oil. It is known to cause skin irritations and dermatitis in rabbits and has been shown to have comedogenic (acne promoting) properties.

Nos 4, 5 and 6 are all produced by chemical reactions between various fatty acids and glycerol (synthetic glycerine). They are largely synthetic and have been shown to cause allergies and dermatitis.

No. 7 is a synthetic emulsifier that may contain dangerous levels of ethylene oxide and dioxane, both known carcinogens.

Nos 8-15 are natural ingredients used in very small amounts that may have been grown using pesticides and herbicides.

No. 16 may be natural or synthetic and has been shown to cause contact eczema.

No. 17 is otherwise known as Caustic Soda and is extremely alkaline and corrosive.

No. 18. Sorbic acid was once isolated from the mountain ash berry, but is now chemically synthesized and is a toxic preservative.

No. 19 is synthetic Vitamin E.

Nos 20-22 are toxic and allergenic preservatives.

No. 23. Probably synthetic, may contain phthalates that have been linked to birth defects.

No. 24. Synthetic colours that could be potentially carcinogenic.

No. 1. from organic aloe vera plants with potent healing properties to regenerate the skin.

No. 2 is cold-pressed from organic safflower seeds, with emollient and skin softening properties.

No. 3. Purified Water.

No. 4 is cold-pressed from organic avocado fruit, very nourishing for dry skin.

No. 5 is from organic shea nut beans, fantastic at preventing stretchmarks and contains a natural sunscreen.

No. 6 is from non-genetically modified soybean oil, a natural moisturising factor contained in healthy skin.

No. 7 is from organic sugar, helps emulsify the oils, butters and aloe together.

No. 8 is a precursor to vitamin B5, healing and moisturising.

No. 9 is from olive juice, a natural antioxidant that protects the skin from UV damage.

No. 10 is from grapefruit seeds, a natural antibacterial.

No. 11 is a natural gum to soften the skin and thicken the product.

No. 12 is from organic vanilla beans and smells divine.

Previous: What does “Natural” and “Organic” mean on product labels? Part 2

Next: What are the natural alternatives to chemicals?

Note: All material published in Organic and Natural Living is copyright © June 2003 of Organic & Natural Enterprise Group and or the individual authors,and is strictly forbidden to reproduce in any form or in any other publication without the prior written approval from ONE Group

When chemicals such as Cocamide DEA or Sodium Hydroxysultaine are followed by the term “derived from coconut oil” the consumer is led to believe that these synthetic chemicals must be natural.

While this may be true in some cases; it is ultimately irrelevant because what you end up with after the chemical processing is usually anything but natural or pure.

For example, to create Cocamide DEA, a foaming agent in some shampoos, requires the addition of a synthetic chemical and known carcinogen, Diethanolamine – DEA, to the coconut oil. It is therefore no longer natural, or safe!

If we look at the term “organic,” we usually think it means ‘grown and cultivated without the use of chemicals’. That is the conclusion most cosmetics companies would like us to make when we see the term “organic” on a label.

Some of those companies are cynically using the chemistry definition of “organic” – meaning a compound that contains a carbon atom. Carbon is found in anything that has ever lived. By using this definition of organic, they are saying that a petrochemical preservative called Methyl Paraben is “organic” because it was formed from leaves that rotted over thousands of years to become crude oil, which was then used to make this preservative.

An increasing number of companies are now claiming to use “organic” herbs in their products.

But what about the rest of the ingredients?

Are they safe?

Isn’t there an authority that governs the use of the term “organic” on labels?

The simple answer is NO. However, the term “certified organic” is governed by a number of internationally recognised bodies. In Australia, Australian Certified Organic (ACO) is the largest.

Searching for products with the logo of a certifying body on the label is the only way can guarantee the organic authenticity and integrity of every ingredient in the product.

Without this, the organic claim means nothing, as it cannot be verified. Here are some examples of internationally recognised certifying bodies:

Previous: How do we know what we are buying is really natural? Part 1

Next: How do we know what we are buying is really “NATURAL” and “ORGANIC”? Part 3

Note: All material published in Organic and Natural Living is copyright © June 2003 of Organic & Natural Enterprise Group and or the individual authors,and is strictly forbidden to reproduce in any form or in any other publication without the prior written approval from ONE Group.

As promised an article by Narelle Chenery - Director of Research and Development at One Group.

As the number of people who are concerned about toxins in our environment grows, more and more cosmetic companies are seen to be jumping on the natural and organic bandwagon.

Our skin is the largest eliminatory organ in the body. It is a two-way membrane. Toxins are eliminated through the skin via perspiration and absorbed through the skin, into the body’s systemic circulation, through hair follicles and sebaceous glands (not through sweat glands). One square inch of skin contains 65 hairs, 100 sebaceous glands, and 650 sweat glands.

But what does natural and organic mean when we see it on a product label?

How do we know what we are buying is really natural and organic?

What are the natural alternatives to chemicals?

And is natural really better for us?

Cosmetic manufacturers are not supposed to claim that their products penetrate our skin. If they did (the products would then be labelled a ‘drug’ and henceforth be governed by much stricter regulations. This is both good and bad. Good because it means your skin can be nourished from the outside with some wonderful ingredients. Bad because it means some cosmetic manufacturer can put into their products that would never be allowed to be taken orally, but are still absorbed into our system, through our skin.

Next: What does “Natural” and “Organic” mean on product labels? Part 2

Note: All material published in Organic and Natural Living is copyright © June 2003 of Organic & Natural Enterprise Group and or the individual authors,and is strictly forbidden to reproduce in any form or in any other publication without the prior written approval from ONE Group.

So what it the big deal about using organic products? Over the next few days I will be posting excerpts from an article written by Narelle Chenery - Director of Research and Development of OneGroup. The article focusses on why it is important to know what we are buying is really natural.

In the meanwhile watch this introduction on ‘Why Organic?’.

NaturalNews.com done an interview with Ronnie Cummins of the Organic Consumers Association. This interview reveals the lab results that show 47 out of 100 so called “natural” or “organic” personal care products to be contaminated with a cancer causing chemical 1,4-dioxane.

This proves that not everything in the market labelled “natural” or “organic” is actually natural or organic!!!

More information go to www.naturalnews.com and www.organicconsumers.org

What now?? Well, our mattresses could be killing us.

Ok, well maybe it’s a little bit of an overstatement but most mattresses have been made from a petroleum-based material called polyurethane foam that emits volatile compounds that can cause respiratory problems and skin irritation. In addition, the adhesives used to hold the mattresses together (formaldehyde) has been linked to asthma, allergies, and lung, nose, and throat cancers.

Oh and it doesn’t stop there, there are the cotton pesticides and flame-retardants chemicals used in mattresses, many of these are known to potentially cause cancer and nervous-system disorders.

For those memory foam users the story is more frightening because a memory-foam model was found to emit 61 chemicals, including the carcinogens benzene and naphthalene.

Where’s the proof?

Of course as with most of these health risks there is no proof that there are health risks from the substances used in mattresses, this is because to track their long-term effects is virtually impossible. But should we risk this especially when it comes children? A baby can sleep up to 18 hours a day!!

Help is at hand?

Good news is that there are alternatives out in the market, there are several mattresses made with organic and non-toxic materials such as wool and latex from rubber trees. These are both naturally fire-resistant, negating the need for any chemical flameproofing. What’s the catch? Of course the price!

Another advantage of using natural non-toxic alternatives is the cost to the environment of making them is less than the cost of traditional mattresses and recycling them would be easier.

Steps to safer measures

If you are like me and are now concerned about toxins but not ready to replace your old mattress due to either money or convenience there are certain steps you can take steps to improve indoor air quality:

• A barrier cloth cover (made from tightly woven cotton and typically used for allergy protection) to keep some compounds from escaping can help with seeping chemicals from your mattresses.
• If a mattress or pillow is noticeably odoriferous, letting it air out in a shed for a few days will at least help keep the chemicals out of the bedroom.
• Finally, stocking up on such houseplants as spider plants and ferns, which absorb airborne pollutants, can help you rest easier.

Goodnight!

Useful Links

Web retailers: http://www.theorganicmattressstore.com, http://www.abacaorganic.co.uk/index.html

Web articles: Toxic Sleep, Should you ditch your chemical mattress?

According to the World Health Organisation (WHO), hair dyes and other chemicals place hairdressers at an increased risk for cancer.

WHO’s International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) based in Lyon, France, says being a hairdresser or barber exposes people to materials and chemicals which are likely to be carcinogenic.

In study which conducted a review of six large investigations into cancer risk the IARC researchers found that for male hairdressers and barbers, the risk of cancer of the bladder was between 20 and 60 percent higher than the general population.

They say the risk though “small is consistent” and is less visible among women.

The researchers found among both male and female hairdressers, a heightened risk of 30 percent for lung cancer was seen in some research; they say this could be partly explained by a higher incidence of smoking among hairdressers.

The researchers looked at eight hair dyes and only one could be classified as possibly carcinogenic to humans and also at aromatic amines.

Amines are a large group of organic compounds which containing nitrogen and are thought to be derived from ammonia and are used in the manufacture of plastic, dyes, drugs and pesticides.

Many are considered toxic if ingested, inhaled or reach the skin.

Of the four aromatic amines researched for the study three were classified as probably carcinogenic to humans, while one could not be classified.

For women hairdressers some research suggested an increased risk for ovarian cancer and of non-Hodgkin’s lymphoma, but this was not backed up by other research.