Fortunately, there is a very simple way to differentiate between hype and truth in cosmetics – and that is to read the ingredient list on the label. It is a legal requirement that all skin care products must be labelled with the ingredients in descending order of their quantity in the product. A good rule of thumb is to divide the ingredients list into thirds: the top third usually contains 90-95% of the product, the middle third usually contains 5-8% and the bottom third, 1-3%.
Here is the ingredient list of a “natural” and “organic” body moisturiser from a well known “natural” skin care company.
Take note of the last point that says “Content: Apricot Oil (2.5%)”. Notice that Apricot Oil is number 3 on the list. Because skin care manufacturers are required to list the ingredients in descending order this means everything AFTER Apricot oil makes up LESS than 2.5% by volume.
This means that about 90% of that product is water and Isopropyl Palmitate. Isopropyl Palmitate, is derived from Isopropyl Alcohol, synthetic alcohol, and Palmitic Acid, a fatty acid from palm oil. It is known to cause skin irritations and dermatitis in rabbits and has been shown to have comedogenic (acne promoting) properties.
Nos 4, 5 and 6 are all produced by chemical reactions between various fatty acids and glycerol (synthetic glycerine). They are largely synthetic and have been shown to cause allergies and dermatitis.
No. 7 is a synthetic emulsifier that may contain dangerous levels of ethylene oxide and dioxane, both known carcinogens.
Nos 8-15 are natural ingredients used in very small amounts that may have been grown using pesticides and herbicides.
No. 16 may be natural or synthetic and has been shown to cause contact eczema.
No. 17 is otherwise known as Caustic Soda and is extremely alkaline and corrosive.
No. 18. Sorbic acid was once isolated from the mountain ash berry, but is now chemically synthesized and is a toxic preservative.
No. 19 is synthetic Vitamin E.
Nos 20-22 are toxic and allergenic preservatives.
No. 23. Probably synthetic, may contain phthalates that have been linked to birth defects.
No. 24. Synthetic colours that could be potentially carcinogenic.
No. 1. from organic aloe vera plants with potent healing properties to regenerate the skin.
No. 2 is cold-pressed from organic safflower seeds, with emollient and skin softening properties.
No. 3. Purified Water.
No. 4 is cold-pressed from organic avocado fruit, very nourishing for dry skin.
No. 5 is from organic shea nut beans, fantastic at preventing stretchmarks and contains a natural sunscreen.
No. 6 is from non-genetically modified soybean oil, a natural moisturising factor contained in healthy skin.
No. 7 is from organic sugar, helps emulsify the oils, butters and aloe together.
No. 8 is a precursor to vitamin B5, healing and moisturising.
No. 9 is from olive juice, a natural antioxidant that protects the skin from UV damage.
No. 10 is from grapefruit seeds, a natural antibacterial.
No. 11 is a natural gum to soften the skin and thicken the product.
No. 12 is from organic vanilla beans and smells divine.
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Next: What are the natural alternatives to chemicals?
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